## Coastal Engineering

JA | EN

 科目ナンバリング U-ENG23 33539 LE73 開講年度・開講期 2020・前期 単位数 2 単位 授業形態 講義 対象学生 学部生 使用言語 英語 曜時限 火4 教員 後藤　仁志（工学研究科 教授） KHAYYER Abbas（工学研究科 准教授） 原田　英治（地球環境学舎 准教授） 五十里　洋行（工学研究科 助教） 清水　裕真（工学研究科 助教） 授業の概要・目的 Fundamental items related to coastal engineering (i.e., coastal process, sediment transport, near shore current, shoaling, irregular wave, tsunami, storm surge, tidal wave, wave force)are to be lectured. Especially, sediment transport controlling physical environment significantly around coastal area is to be explained systematically together with river sediment transport. 到達目標 Our goal is systematic understanding of fundamental hydraulic phenomena around coastal zone which is indispensable for designing coastal environment. 授業計画と内容 Introduction to Coastal Engineering【1 time】：Introduction to coastal engineering with focusing on beach deformationSmall Amplitude wave theory【2 times】：Characteristics of small amplitude wave theory and its application are explained.Wave Statistics / Wave Transformation【2 times】：Developing process of wind wave and expression method of irregular waves are explained. Mechanics of wave transformation is outlined.Wave Force on Coastal Structures【1 time】：Several experimental formulae of wave force acting on coastal structures are introduced. Problems for stability of rubble mound is mentioned.Design of Coastal Structures (Exercise)【1 time】：Exercise of design of coastal structures.Introduction to Computational Design of Coastal Structures【1 time】：State-of-the-art numerical wave flume and its applications are explained.Sediment Hydraulics【4 times】：Sediment hydraulics (i.e., basic characteristics, calculation of river-bed, bed load and suspended load, non-equilibrium sediment transport) is explained.Nearshore Current / Coastal Sediment Transport【1 time】：Near-shore current due to wave deformation and resultant coastal sediment transport are outlined.Tsunami and Storm Surge: Evacuation Planning under Coastal Disasters【1 time】：Characteristics of tsunami and storm surge are explained. Additionally, evacuation process and evacuation planning are introduced.Achievement confirmation【1 time】：Comprehension check of course contents.Feedback 成績評価の方法・観点 Based on the results of examinations 履修要件 特になし 授業外学習（予習・復習）等 To have already completed the class of Hydraulics and Exercises is desirable. 教科書 Handout is used in the lectures as needed. 参考書等 Supplemental textbook is announced in the first lecture.